As the sun set behind the Lodge the mountains turned to gold. Then, as night closed in, the moon rose casting its reflection on the mirror calm lake. There was no sound beyond the rustling of leaves in the wind and the skies were unbelievably bright and clean.
Françoise's Isla Las Bandurrias is a rare and special place. A tiny island is floating in a lake of deep blue crystal clear water. It is the perfect place to rest and take time to find yourself and, if your lucky enough to be with a friend, perhaps even a heart. It is the sort of place most people only dream of visiting.
But the beauty of the “Isla Las Bandurrias” is only part of the story; there is also the adventure in getting there. On Maria's advice I chose the long route starting with a short 30 minutes flight across the high Andes. The light plane threaded through mountain passes and past snow covered volcanoes before landing at the small hamlet of Llanada Grande. From there Miguel, my local guide, met me with the Chilean Criollo horses. We saddled up and headed off into the mountains on a century old trail.
The trail winds through beautiful temperate forests, around stunning lakes and across “Campo” pastures. The less experienced horse rider may find riding the horses a challenge, they are alert to the skill of the rider and mine managed to out smart me at just about every turn. After five hours we eventually reached the shores of “Lago Las Rocas” just on dusk, a short boat ride later I was greeted by Françoise who was waiting with a hot dinner...

Mind you the trip would have much quicker if we had not stopped at every second “campo” to enjoy country hospitality. It would also have helped if I had resisted the temptation to cast a line into the stunning trout filled lakes along the route. I am assured that a skilled and determined rider can do the trip in two hours, but that would mean missing much of the enjoyment.
After a peaceful night and tasty breakfast Miguel picked me up for a trek through the forest to “Lago Azul”. A short boat ride took us across the mirror calm waters of “Lago Las Rocas”. The reflection of the mountains and forest on the lake create stunning mirror images that provided many beautiful photographs. Miguel moored the boat in a small cove and we set off along an easy trail through a pristine forest. After pausing at a small lake to try our luck on the local trout population Miguel prepared a lunch of smoked salmon warmed over an open fire. A short siesta later we continued to “Lago Azul”. The lake is a deep azure color and is surrounded by high mountains, forest and small campo. The day would have been perfect if I had not run out of film. Oh yes I should say there were no mosquitoes or other biting bugs.

After several days of Françoise's wonderful hospitality I took the Lake route out. The Chilean border post is a short boat ride away. After completing the border formalities I said goodbye to Miguel, joined up with Kent who gives the service of a one-hour boat ride up the Rio Puelo into Argentina. It proved to be a very easy trip through a stunning landscape with the added excitement of running the Rio Puelo rapids.
The inflatable boat handled the current comfortably, safely and quickly. I spent the next evening before Bariloche, at: “La Casona de Odile” in El Bolsón. This proved to be a fitting finale to this superb trip. Odile is talented artist who also runs a private hotel set in sprawling landscaped grounds. Aside from being an excellent cook she is a delightful host.
For me the trip proved to be a special experience. Mind you when I return I think I will take the long option and cross the Rio Puelo Valley in the trekking version, I’m glad to think I can stretch my legs and enjoy this trip for more days!